Мина цял месец от краткото ни пътешествие до Грузия, а и се поуморихме да разказвахме, но за някои гледки продължавам да се подсещам и все не ми излизат от главата. За това ще ги разкажа още веднъж. Като психотерапия… дано спрат да ми се привиждат призраци, докато вървя из софийските улици 🙂
Метрото, градския транспорт и грузинските шофьори
Някак си след това пътуване започнахме доста да уважаваме метрото като начин за придвижване из градовете. Хареса ни още в Истанбул, когато трябваше да се доберем от гарата ни до летището за по-малка сума, отколкото сме платили за билетите за влак до там и такситата като транспорт тутакси отпаднаха от класацията. Пък и с истанбулското “афиф метро” можеш и транзит да хвърлиш поглед върху по-голяма част от града, встрани от туристическите маршрути.
Обаче метрото в Тбилиси си беше цяло приключение 🙂 Старата линия, по която пътувахме, е строена през 1966 и е доста дълбоко под земята. Слиза се само с ескалатори – доста бързи и дълги – пътуването с тях е около 100 сек и несвикналите като нас трябва да се държат за перилата. Така и не успях да направя прилична снимка, но подходящ кадър точно на ескалаторите към нашата метростанция има тук. Е… в моите спомени не е толкова лъскаво, светло и чисто. По-скоро се доближава повече до това:
Само да съм чула вече лоша дума за софийското метро! Каквито и кусури да има – сравнено с това в Тбилиси – хич даже не е зле. В старите метростанции в Тбилиси няма пейки за чакащите и мирише доста на мухъл и застоял въздух.
За това пък е доста по-евтино: около 30 ст за жетон. Евтин беше и автобусния транспорт, за това пък таксиметровите шофьори са в пъти по-досадни. А редовите им шофьори по улиците – потенциални (само)убийци. И за софийските шофьори лоша дума вече няма да кажа. Още изпитвам силен стрес, когато се наложи да пресичам и се учудвам, че някой изобщо спира на светофара :))
Бетлеми – кварталът на стълбище
Хората там като че ли умеят да правят от историята си атракция, за разлика от нас. Едноименната улица-стълбище е създадена през 1850 г. по проект на архитекта Timote Beloi, а целия квартал е разположен по един доста стръмен хълм.
Трудно ще намерите по-дълъг прав участък калдаръм, почти всяка уличка е стълбище към по-горното ниво. Всички сгради в този квартал са запазени максимално автентични. Няма неонови табели, няма скъпи автомобили, нито дори нови магазини.
Докато се разхождахме из Бетлеми, се чудехме как жителите му замъкват покупките си по тези стълбища (защото хора си живеят там, къщите са видимо обитаеми и обитавани). Някъде прочетох, че има ръчно направен лифт…
Гарата в Тбилиси
Ако Софийската централна гара е едно огромно недоразумение, тази в Тбилиси е само една идея по-добра. Самата сграда на гарата отвътре на практика е един мол, по всички правила за строителство на такива търговски центрове. Няколко нива магазини, включително и за хранителни стоки. Тоалетните са толкова чисти, че можеш и да се храниш там. Покрай тези тоалетни разбрах, че санитарния фаянс VitrA е турски и няма нищо общо с другата vitra.
Чакалнята представлява само едно ниво от мол-а, там се продават и билетите. Доста хитро решение, защото места по пейките никога няма и си принуден да убиваш времето си до влака с поредните намаления на маркови парцалки. За това пък района около гарата им е същата Индия, като при нашата.
Източни контрасти в Батуми
В интерес на истината Батуми има доста лъскав център и като курортен град си е приятно място с всички екстри, но ние и двата пъти бяхме с раниците на гръб и убивахме няколкото часа до следващия транспорт, така че се мотахме само в района около морската гара и пристанището. А там пейзажите са… индийски, според Прасунсен, който е прекарал няколко месеца в Индия и има база за сравнение 🙂
Стилна, добре поддържана сграда е разположена в съседство с непавирана улица и локви, в които можеш да се удавиш. Е… доколкото видяхме, започнала е мащабна акция за павиране на целия квартал, така че ако отидете в Батуми догодина и се разходите в тази част на града, ще си спестите газенето в калта.
Два хотела, в един квартал и на почти съседни улици.
Не знам кой шегаджия си е кръстил хотела “Аризона”, но има доста каубойски вид, признавам – сполучливо е.
И отново тоалетните. С изключение на летището, където си бяха съвсем ок откъм чистота и европейски на вид, на останалите места в Батуми, където тествахме тоалетните (а за 6-7 часа в жега и непрекъснато наливане с вода се налага наистина често) попадахме на познатите и у нас клекала, с характерната за изтока каничка за подмиване. Снимка нямам. Който ходи по нужда с фотоапарат в ръка, да ми помаха с 3-тото ляво горно пипало 🙂
***
Хм, спирам до тук, че ще стане досадно. И после Енея ще ме захапе, че съм “блог нелюбезна” и аз :))
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